Glossary

Glossary

Sequence of Construction has you stumped? I'm working on making it more user friendly. I use industry shorthand on all of my patterns. They definitely need some explaining, so here’s a glossary to get you get going on your bad ass bag making journey.

Shorthand Meaning Explanation
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Cut Mirroring Materials
Using the single pattern piece, mark and cut two pieces that mirror one another
ADHERE
Apply adhesive spray
Use adhesive spray to join panels
ALIGN
Alignment Mark
A notch on a pattern piece that respresents a static location coresponding to another static location of the pattern
Apply Binding
Using grosgrain, ribbon, or binding tape to cover the seam(s)
BURN
Use Lighter to Burn
Using a lighter burn the end of webbing or cord
Bartack
Apply a bartack
FOLD
Fold on Line
Fold the material at the fold line or notch
NOTCH ALIGN
Alignment Mark
Where two pattern pieces align at notches determined by the pattern
RS
Right Side
The front side of the material
Seam Allowance
The standard Seam Allowance used on a product (generally 3/8")
SEAM ALIGN
Alignment Mark
Where one pattern piece aligns to a seam of another assembly
SET
Stitch with Standard Seam Allowance
Stitch using the patterns standard seam allowance, unless otherwise noted
SS
Stay Stitch
Stitch using 1/8" or 1/4" seam allowance, so the stitch will be hidden on final assembly
TAPE
Apply adhesive tape
Use adhesive tape on edges to join panels
TO
Turnout
Inverse your materials
TS
Topstitch
Stitch a topstitch through all layers
TS EXT
Topstitch Exterior
Stitch a topstitch only going through the exterior layer
TS INT
Topstitch Interior
Stitch a topstitch only going through the interior layer
TURN
Turn/Fold Over
ie. Fold over the end of the webbing
WS
Wrong Side
The back side of the material